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Screw Tops: The Latest Twist on Virginia Wine

Erika Tribett
Jordan Harris, winemaker

Virginia is uniquely poised to catapult into a world-class wine region; the depth and scope of the area's influence is increasing with every new release and tasting room door. Much of the state's potential lies in the ability to simultaneously respect the Old World philosophy of crafting wines representative of terroir while also embracing new technologies to ensure the quality of their craft. Speculation concerning alternative wine bottle closures is one of the most talked about issues facing the industry today. Tarara Winery, having just released the first wine of its line that will eventually be completely under screw top, has experienced first-hand the praise and the proclivity for utilizing this seal. Winemaker, Jordan Harris, often receives the same dissenting arguments:

• Corks have been a tradition for hundreds of years.
• Uncorking a wine is the most romantic part of the experience.
• Wines closed with screw tops do not age as well.

Tarara, a Leesburg winery that has been a key player in the scrimmage to put quality Virginia wine on the map, is devoted to scoring big with the benefits of the screw top and, like their premier capped wine, Long Bomb, makes a strong play for the cause that's hard to resist:

Tops top tradition – Understanding the history of cork use is important to better the practices of today, but the fact is that the 'traditional' closure causes between 5 and 7% of wine (one bottle per case) to noticeably wreak of moldy newspaper. This odorous flaw is created by a potent chemical called TCA (2-4-6 Trichloroanisole) found on anything that contains phenols when it comes in contact with sterilizing agents and mold. This includes wood, plastic, grape skins and, thus, wine. While TCA is harmless, it has detrimental effects on the aroma and flavor of the wine. Corks create an inconsistency that may result in TCA odors. Let's just say screw tops really do 'break the mold.'

Love's Labours Lost: The romantic rush of uncorking a bottle takes the backseat to preserving the integrity of what rests inside, especially when we frequently turn this “ooh, aah” into an "uh, oh." How many times have we tried to open a bottle of wine just to have the cork splinter in half? We blush as we attempt to pop that last 1/8 inch of cork. Finally, we push it into the bottle and surrender ourselves to a glass riddled with spongy floaters. Perhaps you strong-arm the cork out of the bottle, pulling so hard a splash of your favorite Syrah tie-dyes your date's new white shirt. You could avoid this altogether by using one of these space-age corkscrews with more arms and gears than there are grape varietals, but your date is gone before you figure out the mechanics.

Twisted Ageability: Many professionals insist that wines do not age well in screw tops, that they have not been tested to have shown successful aging. These closures, though, are no longer new, and there are many wines from the United States, Australia and New Zealand that have been aging gracefully under screw tops for over 15 years. They gain lovely characters that are normal during the aging process while retaining their freshness and lively fruit characteristics. Are they identical to wine with a cork? No, but after 10 to 15 years, no two wines, cork or cap, are going to be identical. Screw tops result in increased consistency bottle-to-bottle, even after extended aging. At Tarara, we craft wines that will age gracefully for well over a decade. Utilizing screw tops helps ensure that our wines will be fantastic after aging for years.

Screw tops are one of many recent developments in the offensive blitz against faulted wine. These innovative enclosures are not symbols of a fading tradition or a fizzling romance. Screw tops ensure the quality of a libation that brings immense happiness; the twist of technology makes certain the consumer tastes the fruit in its finest form from vine to bottle to glass. Join Tarara in the Tasting Room or at the Victory in Wine Celebration to learn more. For more information, visit www.tarara.com.

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